Tuesday 10 November 2015

The Pieologist's Assault on London - Part I: The Windmill, Mill Street, Mayfair




This is part 1 in a yet-to-be-determined / how-long-I-can-pad-it-out-for series; based on a recent trip to the Old Dart with the old cheese.

That;s the money shot, that is.


During the 8 days we spent in London I had the pleasure of sampling quite a few pies, and without wanting to preempt my future reviews and turn away the goldfish amongst you; frankly I was amazed by the quality of pie that I sampled in London. Admittedly, I did my research before leaving Oz and steadfastly refused to return to the pie and liquor hell I experienced in Cockneyland when I lived there 20 years ago; seeking out only the best and fairest Blighty had to offer (for the uninitiated, pie and liquor is a hideous concoction whereby a perfectly good pie is doused in a pond of green eel-based parsley gravy....and yes, it's just as bad as it sounds).

Warning: this review has the potential to be a huge time waster. Don't say you weren't warned.

My search began with The Windmill, which was recommended to me by good mate, merchant banker par excellence, former tank commander and all round good guy, Hugo. Hugo lives in London with his gorgeous Australian wife Lizzie and their beautiful baby daughter Primrose, and he came across The Windmill as the venue for his annual boys' Christmas lunch. It sounded so good, that when booking our accommodation, I made sure we were within a short walk of it so that we would be constantly walking past it. Cue evil laugh: Bwwwaaaahahahhahahaha!

http://www.windmillmayfair.co.uk

The Windmill is in a tiny street in Mayfair, just off the end of Saville Row. It's one of the dwindling number of Youngs pubs, i.e. pubs owned by Youngs brewery - one of the best brewers of traditional English bitter in the country. Don't take my word for it - they've won awards n'that. When I lived in London many many moons ago there was a Youngs pub on every corner. Now it's full of Starbucks.



I know what you're thinking: yeah, but Pommie beer is lukewarm flat dishwater that isn't worth a pinch of cocky shit. And you'd be wrong. Unless you're still drinking XXXX Gold as your beer of choice, in which case neither me nor anyone else will be able to convince you differently, and you should go back to your replay of the '92 classic grand final on Fox Footy before you miss something. Hey, before you go: the Broncos won...sorry to ruin that for you champ.

The front bar


But what Youngs pubs have is good atmosphere in abundance and a complete lack of pokies. They're a warm and welcoming place to catch up with your mates...and they usually have pretty bloody good food too. If this lot doesn't make you hungry, you're reading the wrong blog old bean:

http://www.youngs.co.uk/fooddrinks

I fronted up there on a brisk but otherwise typically sunny London day, excited by Hugo's reassurances that I wouldn't be disappointed. The Windmill has a Pie Club. It has a Pie Room. It has recipes on its website so you can make its pies at home. It has paintings of pies with legs standing in fields on its walls. It has national awards and glowing Trip Advisor reviews out the wazoo. If I still worked in London I'd get myself a job within walking distance of this pub.



Secret pie business deserves its own room
Best in show

The important stuff



My eyes eagerly scanned the menu as I sipped my pint of bitter, before alighting on the 'Scrum Down' special pie for the Rugby World Cup. I had gone there specifically for the 3-times national award winning steak, kidney & mushroom suet pie, but the Scrum Down was a beef short rib and horseradish pie with Paris mash...and I find it very difficult to pass up beef short rib. It won.

I have no idea why this picture refuses to turn 90 degrees - it's not that big an ask!


In due course the pie arrived. It had lovely presentation, excellent pastry (puff), good temperature, it was moist, with plenty of gravy which was well seasoned (amazing how the gravy somehow didn't make the pastry soft), and it encased a soft, well cooked beef rib.

All the major food groups


Unfortunately, whilst it was a good meal as a whole with truly excellent mash, I felt that there wasn't enough beef in the pie itself, and not enough horseradish to make its presence really felt - but I admit I'm a horseradish lover so I was hoping for a big hit of it with a hint of vinegar to cut through the slow cooked beef.

This clown certainly looks pretty pleased with himself.
Note the second pie room in the background...


Having said that, the pie was very tasty and still rated a rock solid 7/10. I returned several times during the week, but didn't manage to be there during lunch, which was a major disappointment as I didn't get the chance to sample the award-winner. Overall, I loved The Windmill and will be back there in a heartbeat when Gardner and I finally get around to that much-discussed Ashes tour. Big thanks to Hugo for the referral.



And if you think the pies look good, check out The Windmill's sister pub, The Guinea (also in Mayfair) which is situated on a site that's had an Inn on it since 1423 (I told you this one was going to be a time waster, didn't I?). The Guinea specializes in steak:

http://www.theguinea.co.uk









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